Tutankhamun's Perfume
When the tomb of the young pharaoh Tutankhamun was opened, among
the luxurious contents found within were various beautifully crafted
jars and containers. To the excitement of the excavators, one particular
jar was discovered to contain a perfumed unguent, still radiantly
fragrant after so many centuries.
Unguent is the classical word used to describe what modern English-speakers
might better understand as an ointment or a solid perfume. Despite
the occasional ancient Egyptian image or the discovery of what certainly
seems to be functional distillery equipment in the ruins of Mohenjo-Daro,
as far as we know today the distillation process was not popularized
until the 10th century of our time. Thus, Egyptian perfumes were
very different in texture from the liquids now considered "perfumes".
For a close modern comparison, consider the solid perfumes currently
imported from India, packaged in small carved wooden or stone containers.
(The resemblance is in texture, presentation and appearance, not
necessarily in fragrance.)
The perfumed ointment found in Tutankhamun's tomb was of a solid
nature, although it was noted that it melted and became more viscous
within the heat of a hand. Observers at the time found the aroma
similar to coconut oil and also remarked that it resembled the scent
of valerian (Valeriana officinalis), the first tip-off to what the
jar probably contained. The perfume was analyzed in 1926 and was
found to consist of a "neutral animal fat" and a resin
or balsam. At the time they were unable to be more specific. However,
the primary fragrant component is now believed to be valerian's
close cousin, the ancient and precious spikenard (Nardostachys jatamansi).
Still reasonably rare and reasonably expensive, most find spikenard's
name much more familiar than its fragrance. Its reputation is ancient.
It is an ingredient in some formulas for Kyphi, the famed sacred
Egyptian temple perfume. Spikenard was also a component of the sacred
incense offered in the Jewish Temple of Jerusalem. It is mentioned
no less than three times in the Song of Songs. The ancient Greeks
had a beloved perfume fragrance based on spikenard. Spikenard's
main claim to fame comes from its prominence in the New Testament.
It was ointment of spikenard that Mary of Bethany (whether she is
one and the same with Mary Magdalene, now matron saint of perfumers,
is still the subject of intense debate, as it has been for centuries)
used to anoint the feet of Jesus Christ, filling the entire room
with its aroma. Rather than its wonderful fragrance, however, what
is most famous about spikenard is its high cost. Two of the gospels
comment on its price. Judas Iscariot was apparently offended at
the anointing of Jesus, demanding to know why the jar of ointment
wasn't sold and the proceeds given to the poor. In the light of
its discovery in Tutankhamun's tomb, it can be appreciated that
spikenard was truly a fragrance fit for a king.
Why was spikenard so expensive? Because
of where it grows and the difficulty in obtaining it. Spikenard
is not native to Egypt, Punt or the Middle East. It is native to
the Himalayas and grows at high altitudes. Its use in the ancient
world is a demonstration of their sophisticated trade routes and
of the importance placed on aromatic material: they went to a lot
of trouble to obtain this little root. Spikenard was packaged in
carved alabaster boxes, carefully brought down by caravan and exported
over the ancient world. As recently as one hundred years ago, spikenard
was imported from Nepal to Egypt for use as a folk medicine. Beyond
various medicinal uses, like valerian, it has relaxing, sedative
properties, spikenard was anciently believed to bear mystical and
romantic powers.
Today, spikenard is available as an
essential oil. It is steam distilled from dried and crushed rhizomes
and roots, resulting in a pale golden liquid. What does it smell
like? Not necessarily what you might expect a perfume to smell like,
if your expectations are of a floral garden. Spikenard has a profound
and complex aroma, a combination sweet/spicy/musky, a very organic
earthy scent. The root from which the finest fragrance is obtained
is tufted and sort of "hairy" in appearance; at one time
it was surmised that spikenard was an animal's tail. (Remember,
the plant came from very far away. Those who obtained it many miles
away never saw the living plant and the perfumers of the time were
a mysterious bunch, who kept their trade secrets to themselves.)
Pliny called spikenard root "little goat".
A historically correct re-creation of Tutankhamun's precious unguent
might involve rendering goose fat for a base. A version more palatable
to modern tastes might substitute coconut oil. The original excavators
of the tomb noted the unguent's resemblance to coconut oil; like
animal fats, this vegetable material solidifies at cool temperatures,
thus approximating the texture of the ancient perfume.
Tutankhamun's Perfume
- One quarter cup coconut
oil
- 6 drops of essential oil
of spikenard
- 6 drops of essential oil
of frankincense
For blending purposes, the oil should
be liquid. If the oil has solidified, place one-quarter cup of the
solid oil in the top of a double boiler and warm gently. (If you
don't have a double boiler, improvise by creating a water bath.
Put the oil in a container and place it within a pot of water. Warm
the water gently on the stove, under constant supervision. The oil
must not actually be in the water.) When the oil is liquid, blend
in the essential oils. Place in a container and allow to harden
at room temperature again.Perhaps instead of a historically accurate
texture, you'd like to avail yourself of some of spikenard's therapeutic
gifts. Beyond their evocative fragrances, both spikenard and frankincense
are considered especially beneficial for mature skin, minimizing
wrinkles and delaying the signs of aging.
To reap those benefits instead, substitute a thinner vegetable oil,
less inclined to clog pores than coconut, perhaps grapeseed or jojoba.
These oils will not solidify but will remain liquid. There is no
need to heat the oil; merely add the essential oils. Massage a little
into your face before retiring in the evening. (Both oils also have
reputations as romance-enhancers, so the possibilities are endless.)·
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